
01
The tide decides when anyone leaves
2,500 kilometres, and the islands off it. Five pieces, in the order they are worth reading.
The tide decides when anyone leaves
Off Vilankulo the channel empties twice a day and the dhows sit down on the sand until it fills, which sets the working day.
Bazaruto, and the last dugong
The archipelago holds the largest remaining dugong population in the western Indian Ocean, and the surveys that establish that are published.
Ilha de Moçambique, half stone and half reed
The old Portuguese capital is a World Heritage site that is two towns on one small island, built of different materials.
The Quirimbas, further north than most people go
A chain of coral islands with a mainland park behind it, and very little infrastructure.
What a dhow actually is
A lateen rig on a shallow hull, built locally, and still the working boat of the coast rather than a tourist prop.